Wednesday, July 22, 2009

A Few Days in the Rockies

After our mini-epic on Mount Brock we took it easy for a few days, doing some hiking and some renting bikes to ride some of the trails.

2009-07 Kanaskaskis

And in case you're looking for the restaurant reviews, we did fit in a nice supper at Grappa in Kananaskis Lodge :-) And, of course, a few cold ones at Woody's

Tuesday, July 21, 2009

A Long Day on Mount Brock

This last weekend we headed out to the Rockies. On our first day of climbing we decided to tackle the South-East Pillar of the West Rib of Mount Brock (map), as described in Selected Alpine Climbs by Sean Dougherty.

The route goes up the left hand pillar on the edge of the sun and shade.

We got up at 5am in the dark and were on the trail by 6am, headed up King Creek. It's a nice canyon, but the trail criss-crosses back and forth across the creek on makeshift log bridges so it's a little slow.

In typical guidebook speak we were to follow the north fork past five gully systems until below a prominent drainage. We counted and recounted gullies and I think in the end we went up the right one.

The gully below the climb was still full of steep snow and we were in approach shoes without ice axes. The snow was just soft enough to kick steps. It would have been a long slide if we'd slipped.

We reached the bottom of the pillar about 9 am - 3 hours and the guidebook said 3 -4 hours so we were doing ok. We probably should have started a bit further up the gully but we'd had enough of the snow.

The climbing was reasonable, loose in places but that's to be expected in the Rockies. Some sections were nice and solid. According to the route description there should have been a ledge cutting across the face after two or three pitches where we figured the normal start would join up with us. We never found anything that fit the description.

That's Shelley highlighted, heading for the sun.

We were moving way too slow, mostly because of searching for protection and belay anchors. The rock tended to be either solid, but no cracks, or loose mounds of rubble. Neither are very amenable to placing protection.

According to the guidebook after about 6 pitches we should have reached easier 3rd class climbing. After 8 pitches, it had eased a bit but it still wasn't 3rd class scrambling. We started to wonder if we were on the right pillar. There'd been some signs of other climbers lower down but nothing after the first few pitches. And what we did see were signs of people rappelling off in retreat. Was that because they realized they were on the wrong pillar?

9 pitches took us six hours. It was 3 pm. The top still seemed a long way away. And it wasn't clear how we'd get to the descent ridge, which was supposed to be "easy downclimbing", but who knows what that meant. We had to make a decision whether to go for the top and hope for an easier descent, or cut our losses and try to descend the way we'd come up. At the speed we were going, either way we'd be lucky to get off by dark.

We decided to retreat. On the way up I'd been thinking I was glad we weren't going to have to come down this way. So much for that idea.

10 rappels later we reached the ground at 9 pm. Again, way too slow. Again, mostly because of searching for anchors. And, of course, trying to find the way down, keeping a clear line to pull the rope without snagging it. It meant leaving gear behind. A few spots we were able to loop horns. We rapped off single anchors more than I'd like. Not to save money, but to save enough gear for the rest of the descent. We always backed them up for the first person, but it's still riskier than I'd like.

After 12 hours of climbing on loose crap without either of us getting nailed, Shelley got hit in the leg by a rock I knocked off trying to straighten the ropes on the very last rappel. Luckily it wasn't bad enough to stop her walking out.

Damage from falling rock.

We made it down the steep snow and headed downhill to the creek in increasing darkness. Surprisingly, and thankfully, we found an easier route down than we'd taken on the ascent. I think there were a lot of nice wildflowers but it was hard to tell in the dark. And we actually found a path down the north fork of the creek that we'd missed on the way up.

By the time we reached the car it was almost 1 am - close to 19 hours since we'd set out. We hadn't taken more than a five minute break the whole day so we were pretty bagged. Amazingly, we'd had perfect weather all day. A bit windy in the afternoon, and a few high clouds, but nothing threatening. It would have been a miserable descent in the rain.

Looking at the mountain the next day, I think we were on the right route. It was hard to tell how high we reached. It might have been quicker to continue up and over the top, but I think we made the right choice. At least descending we knew the route.

In the end it all worked out ok, other than not reaching the top. We underestimated the length of the climb, and weren't in practice to move quickly enough. And I should have done a little more research, for example this report rates it 5.8 not 5.6 and they ended up having to bivy (didn't make it in a day). At least we avoided a cold bivy.

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

iPhone Photos

A few of the photos I've taken with the iPhone. I like the macro (close-up) ones best.

If you click on the slideshow to go to the album you can see how the photos are geo-coded (their location is automatically recorded). You can even see miniature photos at their location on a map.

Garter Snake iPhone Video



I was walking to work and I saw something up ahead on the path. As I got closer it started to look like a snake but it wasn't moving. I figured it was dead, probably run over by a bicycle or a maintenance vehicle. But when I got close enough, I could see it's head up and watching me.

I had my new iPhone in my pocket, listening to a podcast, so I pulled it out. I shot a still photo but I knew it wouldn't look like much. Then I realized that I could shoot a video clip. It was lucky that it was a cool rainy morning - on a warm day the snake would have been long gone before I could video it. I'm not sure what he was doing out and about in the cold weather, maybe he was snacking on the worms that were out on the sidewalk due to the rain.

Wednesday, July 08, 2009

The Dominant Animal

"It would indeed be the ultimate tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more noble that the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump."
-- William David Ormsby Gore, 1960

I just finished reading The Dominant Animal by Paul and Anne Ehrlich. I have to admit I'm starting to avoid these kinds of books. I don't need any more convincing and they just make me depressed.

Nonetheless, it's a good book, worth reading.

Step One: Change Government ?!

I just watched this video of a talk by Lawrence Lessig about the problems with the US political system, especially congress. Most of it also applies to our Canadian system, in the basic ideas if not the details.

I tend to agree that if we're going to get anywhere on the big problems of environment, climate, etc., first we have to change how our government works.

But I'm afraid that's not really a very encouraging conclusion. It just adds another impossible task to the growing list.

Saturday, July 04, 2009

Dave Matthews - Digging a Ditch



Sometimes my current programming project feels like "digging a ditch" :-)
and the current state of the world certainly "weighs down on me".

Digging a Ditch
by Dave Matthews

Run to your dreaming
When you're alone
Unplug the TV, turn off your phone
Get heavy on with digging your ditch

Cause I'm digging a ditch where madness gives a bit
Digging a ditch where silence lives
Digging a ditch for when I'm old
Digging this ditch my story's told

Where all these troubles
That weigh down on me will rise
Run to your dreaming
When you're alone
Where all these questions
Spinnin' around my head
Will die, will die, will die...

Run to your dreaming
When you're alone
Unplug the TV, turn off your phone
Get heavy on with digging your ditch

Cause I'm digging a ditch where madness gives a bit
Digging a ditch where silence lives
Digging a ditch when I am through
Digging this ditch I'll dig in for you
Where all these worries
Weighing down on me will rise
Where all these habits
Pull heavy at my heart
Will die

Run to your dreaming
When you're alone
Not what you should be or what you've become
Just get heavy on with digging your ditch

Cause I'm digging a ditch where madness gives a bit
Digging a ditch where silence lives
Where all these disappointments, grow angry out of me
Will rise...
Will die...
Will die...
Will die...

Run to your dreaming
When you're alone
Unplug the TV
And turn off your phone
Get heavy on with digging your ditch

[from lyricsmode.com]

Thursday, July 02, 2009

Souleio - A New Restaurant/Deli/Shop

Shelley and I went to Souleio for lunch today.
Souleio Foods embodies the true meaning of the word “organic” - authentic, artisanal foods produced with care and attention to the natural environment, encouraging both pride of place and pride in people within our own community and other communities around the globe.
The food was great (we shared a salad and a panini) and the store section had some interesting items. They're also selling some wine which is a brand new experience here, since until very recently you could only buy at government liquor stores.

But ... I was very disappointed to first get our food in a disposable takeout container, and then get our drinks in disposable plastic cups. Just to be clear, we were sitting in the restaurant area, there was no confusion that we wanted takeout.

For a place that makes a big thing about "sustainable" and "care and attention to the natural environment" I expect better. I emailed them to urge them to consider alternatives.

Wikimedia Pictures of the Year

Commons:Picture of the Year/2008 - Wikimedia Commons

Some great photographs. Even one of Mt. Yamnuska near Calgary.

Thursday, June 25, 2009

Lunch at the Berry Barn

We went to the Berry Barn for lunch today and wandered around the gardens. We even found some frogs in a small pond beside the wedding area.

2009-06-25 Berry Barn

Trailguru

Track ID#7AAJ (Running) | Saskatoon, SK, Canada - Trailguru

I recently bought an iPhone and I've been looking at the various running applications. This track is from one called Trailguru for a run I did this morning.

The GPS had some trouble in the lower unpaved trail through the trees, but it seemed to handle it ok, catching up when it did get a signal, although I think that's what threw off the max speed. (I didn't really run over 20 km/hr!)

The gap in the track is when I left the app to pick a new podcast to listen to. When I resumed, it wouldn't track until I turned off "Airplane" mode (cell and wifi disabled) which I'd done to conserve power. But it had worked up till then in Airplane mode. Strange.

The other ones I've been looking at are MapMyRun and RunKeeper. I haven't decided which one I like best.

If I'm going to use the iPhone on runs I'm going to have to buy an armband carrier. Holding it in your hand, like I did today, is not the most convenient. But I'm not convinced I really want to. One of the things I like about running is that it's low tech.

Monday, June 22, 2009

Old Dogs Still Have a Few Tricks

Shelley and I were in the Urban Adventure Race in Saskatoon this weekend. We entered for fun and to support the event. Neither of us had really been training much and we weren't particularly competitive or expecting to do that well.

Surprisingly, we ended up winning!

There were 21 teams with 2 or 3 people per team. Half the race (2 hours) was on bike, the other half was on foot. We were the oldest racers and I'm sure we weren't the fastest - there were triathlon people, and bike racers and marathon runners. That's the nice thing about adventure racing in general, and even more so, score competitions* like this one - it's not enough to be fast, you also have to make the right strategic and tactical decisions. I think our experience with score competitions like the Navigation Marathon helped. And we also know the city and river bank trails pretty well. And I've spent a lot of hours reading maps, especially from planning the Prairie Pitch races. (The maps were from Google Earth which added a good twist. Most of the streets weren't labeled, but you could identify other features which wouldn't have been on a street map.)

The start was amusing. They handed out the maps a few minutes before start time and while everyone was studying them the start time came and passed. Finally Shelley asked "can we start" and they said yes so we took off, leaving everyone still standing around. So we had everyone chasing us for the first few points. (Although, you have to be careful not to rush too much because not spending enough time planning your route can also cost you.) Of course, this didn't last very long - one of the nice things about a score competition is that people make different route choices and scatter, instead of all chasing each other around the same course. Even when you do see other teams you have no idea whether they have more or less points.

* A score competition is where you have a fixed amount of time to collect as many marked locations as possible. Some locations may be worth more points e.g. if they are further away or harder to find. If you exceed the time limit then you get points deducted from your score.

Hoedown from Rodeo

Hoedown from Rodeo from Eleanor Stewart on Vimeo.


Very cool. Worth switching to full screen (the four arrow icon next to "Vimeo")

Sunday, June 21, 2009

2009-06 Kayak Trip

Last week I spent three days kayaking down the North Saskatchewan river from North Battleford to Saskatoon, about 100 km.


Although it runs through developed farmland, the river and banks are still mostly wild. I didn't see any other people during the trip, other than the one bridge I passed under about halfway. I did see lots of wildlife - moose, deer, coyotes, beavers, muskrats, and of course, geese, pelicans, and other birds.

I had great weather, if anything a little too hot, which led to some afternoon thundershowers. But the mornings were beautiful.

2009-06 Kayak Trip
I didn't take a lot of photos. On the water I tend to keep my camera in a dry bag, but that means when I see wildlife I usually can't get the camera out in time to catch them.

The river was quite shallow and slow (~ 2 km/hr) so it took me longer than I had expected. Four days probably would have been better. I spent about 10 hours a day on the water, which might sound like a lot, but with 16 or more hours of daylight it still leaves time to relax.

Friday, June 19, 2009

Finding Coral

Day 9 - The Search | findingcoral.com

These folks are doing a great job of publicizing this project. Otherwise, you'd never hear about a bunch of scientists out doing research.

We think our world has been explored to the last detail, but it's amazing how much we don't know about the underwater world.

Jordy Gold and Urban Sustainability

TheStar.com | News & Features | 'Icebreakers' seek common ground:
He may not be the green Messiah but he sees dark days coming. And, amiable as he is, when he talks about what he thinks it'll take to ward them off, he exhibits the proselytizing zeal of a hellfire-and-damnation evangelist.

That doesn't, he insists, make him a prophet of doom.

'If you were a pessimist, you might as well just give up right now,' he says. 'All I want is for people to act like adults.'
via WorldChanging Canada

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Bixi: the Bicycle-Taxi

WorldChanging Canada: Bixi: the Bicycle-Taxi for a Bright Green City

Cool.

Of course, our winters in Saskatchewan would be a problem.

Balloon Ride

We finally got our balloon ride after three years of trying. Every time we were booked, the weather would be wrong - too windy, too calm (!), rain, clouds, etc. Then you'd have to rebook a month or two in advance so you only got a few tries per summer. I was starting to wonder if it would ever happen. But in the end we had a beautiful morning, as you can see from the pictures. It's a very peaceful experience.

2009-06-12 balloon ride

California State Parks Closing?

Schwarzenegger proposes closing 80 percent of California state parks - San Jose Mercury News

I'm not sure what to think about this.

My first reaction was that it was awful.

But if they just close the gates to vehicle traffic, maybe that's not so bad.

The concern is that there will be vandalism and other abuse, but if you can't drive in, will that really happen?