Thursday, March 14, 2024

Drake Bay & Corcovado National Park

foggy morning

The main reason to go to Drake Bay is to visit Corcovado National Park. It's not the easiest place to get to. There is a road but it's challenging 4wd territory. The better alternative is by boat, which wouldn't be so bad except there's no dock in Drake's bay so you end up jumping out of the boat into the water, which wouldn't be so bad except when there are 4 foot waves tossing the boat around. At least it's a sandy beach in Drake's Bay. A boat ride is also required to get to the Sirena entrance to the park, where you also have to jump out into the water, but there it's a rocky shore. And depending on your schedule, you may end up spending a night in Sierpe where you catch the boat. Sierpe has limited choices for food and lodging. All of our group except me ended up with stomach problems after Sierpe, putting a damper on the trip to Drake Bay.

Our hotel in Drake Bay was up on the hill with a great view of the bay

Drake's Bay

There were green iguanas in the trees and many birds around.

Green Iguana

Mangrove Swallow

Buff-throated Saltator

Common Black Hawk

Great Kiskatdee

Corcovado is the largest park in Costa Rica and one of the largest remaining areas of lowland tropical forests anywhere. You have to have a guide to go in the park and go in a group. We had eight people in our group, which wasn't bad, although there were many other groups so it wasn't exactly a wilderness experience. The advantage of the guide is that they know where animals can be found, and you see much more than you would otherwise.

While I was happy to get photos of these animals, the challenges of the dense forest mean they're not very good (by my standards).

There are four kinds of monkeys in Costa Rica - Howler, Spider, Squirrel, and Capuchin. We saw Howler and Spider here.

Howler Monkey

Howler Monkey with juvenile

Spider Monkey

Costa Rica is known for its sloths. We saw one Three-toed Sloth although it was sleeping in an awkward spot to get a good photograph. (Not very considerate of it!)

Three-toed Sloth

We were also lucky enough to see this Tamandua anteater. They spend a lot of their time up in the trees. It was moving around but I think it was a little curious about us, which allowed me to get this shot.

Tamandua (anteater)

Tapirs are another iconic (and endangered) Costa Rican animal. We saw two different ones, but they were both sleeping in mud wallows, surrounded by vegetation.

Tapir

There are two kinds of peccaries here, White-lipped and Collared. We only saw Collared Peccaries, which I've also seen in the southern USA where they're known as javalinas. We also saw Coatis (a bit like raccoons) but I didn't get a decent photo of them.

Collared Peccary

We didn't see a lot of birds in the park. The most impressive were the Great Curassow. We saw both males (all black) and females like this one. For a change the female birds are more colorful. They're quite large birds, about the size of a wild turkey.

Great Curassow (female)

I was happy to spot these Basilisk lizards, although the rest of the group wasn't interested. They're known as "Jesus lizards" because of their ability to run across water. The rest of the group was busy looking for the baby Spectacled Caimens.

Common Basilisk

Spectacled Caimen juveniles

The guides are mostly looking for the larger, more "famous" birds and animals. At one point, when our guide came over to see what I was photographing, his comment was "oh, it's just a spider". Personally, I thought it was quite an interesting creature.

jumping spider

spider

See also a post from our previous trip.

See all 58 photos in this batch

Sunday, March 10, 2024

Rivas

clouds

Rivas was another flying site, inland from Dominical. This is a more advanced site. Conditions can be strong and the landing is quite far and in a soccer field surrounded by trees. Last time Shelley and I hadn't flown here because conditions weren't good. It didn't seem like we'd get to fly this time either since it was cloudy and windy when we arrived. But in the morning it looked better and a couple of us got flights in. We stayed at Hotel de MontaƱa El Pelicano which had nice gardens and lots of trees and birds.

heliconia

heliconia

Red-tailed Stingless Bee

grasshopper

Golden-hooded Tanager

flower

We were leaving the restaurant one morning when the manager called us back. They had found a leaf mimic katydid and had seen our interest in wildlife. It's quite amazing how closely they resemble a leaf, even with fake veins and damage. It had crazy long antenae.

Leaf Katydid

Leaf Katydid

The other reason to come here was to visit Mariposario Casa Alegria (butterfly house). When we first arrived one of the group found a Praying Mantis in the women's bathroom. Not wanting to be seen taking photos in the women's bathroom, I transferred it to a plant outside :-) Praying mantises (and spiders) weren't popular at the butterfly house because they catch and eat butterflies.

Praying Mantis

Malachite butterfly

Owl butterfly

Whitened Bluewing butterfly ?

White-spotted Prepona butterfly ?

Doris Longwing butterfly ?

Silver-studded Leafwing butterfly ?

Julia Heliconia butterfly ?

Some of the caterpillars were almost as pretty as the butterflies.

Blue Morpho caterpillar ?

caterpillar

In a protected environment like this the butterflies live longer than they would in the wild, and so quite a few of them were ragged and damaged.

Doris Longwing butterfly ?

The owner himself gave us our tour of the butterfly house.

the butterfly keeper

See all 77 photos in this batch

Saturday, March 09, 2024

The Indignity of Air Travel

20240307-IMG_2711

Once upon a time, travel was a treat and a luxury. Now it's more like an abusive relationship. One we can't quite bring ourselves to give up and so we continue to accept the abuse.

My flight left Costa Rica an hour late. The only official explanation (in the early stages) was that they were waiting for the luggage to be loaded, which seemed like a weak excuse. The rumor I heard later was that they were waiting for one passenger. If that's true, it's ironic, given how it unfolded.

We made up a little time on the flight, but still arrived 30 minutes late. I originally had 90 minutes for my connection, now I was down to 60. I asked a flight attendant about my connection but they reassured me it wouldn't be a problem - this was Montreal, it was much better than Toronto. (I suspect he was from Montreal.)

In hindsight I shouldn't have booked a 90 minute connection. That's probably ok for an outgoing connection, but not for an incoming connection where you have to go through immigration and pick up and recheck your bag for customs, and then go back through security. But both flights were Air Canada, and I booked directly on their web site, and it suggested the connection, so it must be ok, right?

I made it through immigration amazingly quickly. For once, automation actually helped. But all that meant is that I had to wait for my bag. It drives me crazy how much luggage people take for carry on. But I have to admit, if I hadn't had a checked bag, this would have turned out much differently. In this case, I had a paraglider and a bunch of camera equipment so I couldn't have traveled with just carry on.

Finally my bag came and I moved to a new line to get through security. Finally I was home free. About 10 people from my flight were trying to make the same connection. We crossed paths multiple times as we tried to speed up an immovable process.

According to my boarding pass, the flight left at 6pm and the gate would close at 5:45. I got to the gate at 5:40 and it was deserted. There was one lone Air Canada employee who turned out to be an IT guy who knew nothing about flights. He turned out to be the most helpful and polite of all the Air Canada employees I dealt with.

It turned out the gate had closed and the flight had left 10 minutes early. No one could explain why they would do this, especially with 10 connecting passengers due at any minute. I'm guessing they filled it up from standby and once it was full they might as well leave. I realize in this day and age it's too much to ask that they hold the flight for you but at least they could leave on schedule. (Later, the Air Canada "manager" denied that the flight left early. Humorously, at least half of the 10 customers had taken a photo of the status monitor showing it leaving 10 minutes early. It's a sad state of affairs when you have to assume that the company will lie to you.)

I went in search of the customer service counter, where I lined up yet again, with all the people from my flight. The line moved agonizingly slowly because they had no good answers and no one wanted to walk away until they got some kind of satisfaction. You'd think it would make sense to deal with all the people in the same situation at the same time, but that would be too rational.

All along the way, everyone assured us that we were fine, that we'd make our connection no problem. That puzzled me at first, since the connection was obviously tight and they couldn't predict things like baggage or security delays. Then I realized that it was simply a way to keep the cattle placid on their way to slaughter.

Once the connection was missed it was a whole different story. Not one of the multiple Air Canada staff apologized or showed the slightest sympathy or empathy. Heck, they weren't even polite. It was our fault we had missed the flight, and it was our problem, not theirs. Obviously the staff we dealt with didn't have any control of anything. They were pawns just like us, and probably just as abused, only more often. But they're still fellow human beings. I guess they've had that hammered out of them.

There wasn't even any attempt at "fake" sympathy like you might see if they had had customer relations training. That kind of training probably got cut as a cost saving measure so the executives could increase their bonuses.

The only common approach was to pass the buck at all costs. No doubt this is the "training" they implicitly receive. This extended to the lack of authority at all levels, and the system of always having a nameless faceless "superior" to assign responsibility to.

On a solitary positive note, the initial customer service agent got me on a flight for the next morning. I'd hoped there would be other flights the same day, and there probably were, but they were probably all overbooked.

The next hurdle was where to stay for the night. I expected Air Canada to provide a hotel voucher. But the customer service agent didn't handle that. We had to talk to a manager. Where was the manager? At the check-in counter in departures, halfway across the airport. I arrived there first of my cohort. There was no sign of anything resembling a service counter, let alone a manager. I asked various people until I found one who directed me to counter 22. (I wonder if the person who chose that had read Catch 22). You couldn't actually reach counter 22 because it was roped off. I ducked under. But counter 22 had a sign on it that it was closed. I got the attention of a nearby attendant and asked where the manager was. He pointed. The manager was heading away but I (probably rudely at this point) called out loudly, "excuse me, are you the manager?". I suspect they would have liked nothing better than to pretend not to hear, but it was a little too obvious. They reluctantly turned and returned to the unlabeled counter 22.

Maybe the manager would have better people skills? No, like everyone else we dealt with they immediately went on the defensive and put all the blame on us for missing the flight. Regardless, she had no authority to give out hotel vouchers. (Since we were sent to her specifically for that purpose, this seemed like yet another run-around.) Next she pulled the trump card and phoned the "connection manager". She then reported that our first flight wasn't that late, that the connecting flight didn't leave early, and that we'd had an hour to make our connection which was officially sufficient time. People kept interrupting her to try to correct the obvious untruths at which point she used another tactic. "If you keep interrupting me and won't let me finish then there's no point talking to you." I agreed and walked away. I left the rest of the cohort still arguing but all they got was more frustration and lies. It wasn't worth it.

I picked the first nearby hotel with a restaurant, took their airport shuttle, and got a room. I canceled my hotel in Vancouver (no refund due to the last minute cancellation) and I would miss my ferry shuttle to Victoria the next day.

My lesson is to allow more than 90 minutes for an incoming connection. Which is obvious in hindsight, but an expensive lesson in this case.

Sunday, March 03, 2024

Frogs Galore

This post is out of order, but I don't think the frogs will mind. I took so many frog photos that they deserved a post of their own. One advantage of travelling alone is that no one cares if you spend hours frog watching :-)

When I arrived, I was interested to read that the gardens of Hotel Bougainvillea contained several ponds where they were trying to help frog conservation. Most people aren’t thrilled with frogs although cute red-eyed tree frogs are associated with Costa Rica. I checked out the ponds the day I arrived but didn’t spot any frogs. I did see several small splashes as I approached one of the ponds. That could have been frogs but it could have been other things.

The next morning I went back and approached the pond more slowly. Sure enough, I spotted a frog. There was a ledge around the pond and it was out of the water sitting on the ledge. I realized there were damp spots on the ledge where frogs were (or had been) sitting.

frog

I sat by the pond and watched. I figured if there was one frog there were probably more. There were lots of tadpoles which was a good sign. Sure enough, I eventually spotted several sets of eyes poking out of the water. With enough patience and scanning my highest count was 6 visible at one time. There are four visible in this photo but they're hard to see.

four frogs visible

Most of the time, all that was visible were the protruding eyes, usually in the middle of vegetation.

frog

frog

frog

The ledge was about four inches above the water. I never saw one get out of the water onto the ledge. I assume they jumped? But it's not easy to jump out of water.

two frogs

Of course, they had no trouble jumping off the ledge back into the water. I caught this photo as it swam away. It's interesting to see how long and slim they are when swimming, compared to when sitting bunched up.

frog swimming

During all my time watching them, I only saw one (failed) attempt at catching an insect. Being a frog obviously requires even more patience than frog watching.

The funniest part was after an extended session of sitting on the uncomfortable rock by the pond, my legs had gone to sleep and when I tried to get back up (slowly, without disturbing the frogs) I ended up rolling backwards in slow motion, giving priority of course to protecting the two cameras in my lap. Luckily no one was watching. (And luckily I didn't roll forward into the pond!)

Curiously, I didn't see any frogs at the pond with the sign about them. But I could easily have missed them. It seemed like a good spot for them, but I didn't see any tadpoles either. Another pond also seemed to be missing frogs and tadpoles. I decided that this was because it was so shallow (only a few inches). Then I spotted a frog (sitting right in the open). So much for that theory!

frog

There was quite a lot of variation in the coloring. Some were more green and some more brown. The sign mentioned Forreri Leopard Frogs, and the one above looks a lot like the leopard frogs I know from Canada. But the one I saw first was more of a pure light green. I'm not sure if it's a different kind, or just a more extreme variation.

frog

Here's a view of the pond with the hotel in the background. (One of those balconies was my room.)

frog pond

See all 37 photos in this batch.

Friday, March 01, 2024

Dominical

Dominical on the west (Pacific) coast is a hangout for surfers. We were there to paraglide at a site on the ridge overlooking the ocean. It's one of my favorite sites because you land on the beach and the views of the coast from the air are spectacular. I only took a few photos because we were busy flying.

Dominical Beach

These little Ghost crabs on the beach were well camouflaged and skittish.

Ghost crab

When I took this photo I assumed it was pelicans flying by, but when I looked at it on the computer, I saw it was White Ibis.

White Ibis

The next morning there was a mixed group of Black Vultures and White Ibis scavenging by the beach. It was funny to see the black and white mix.

White Ibis

Scarlet-rumped tanagers are common here. The name obviously comes from the male:

Scarlet-rumped Tanager (male)

The female has quite different coloring:

Scarlet-rumped Tanager (female)

There are quite a few yellow birds here. I'm pretty sure this is a Tropical Kingbird.

Tropical Kingbird

There are so many showy flowers. Quite amazing to a prairie person.

flower

flowers

Passion flower

(I only noticed the hovering insect when I looked at the photo afterwards.)

So far no one on iNaturalist has identified which kind of Anole (a kind of lizard) this is.

anole

There were various butterflies around, but they didn't seem to ever sit still. Perhaps understandable in +35c heat!

Tropical-Checkered Skipper ?

We got rained out from flying one day, but the cloud show was impressive.

clouds

See all 22 photos in this batch